Aj and his grand prix (work in progress)

Yea thats why i was kind of backing off the idea of the 7k, i was going to run the 3k and wire to .5ohm and burp the fuck out of it.....ground pounding number chasing. Now im revealing secrets that arent suppose to be out yet. Damn you.

I will go look at it. Thanks

^^^nice choice and really there is nothing wrong with Knu KCA or Kolossus wire. They have a great product bc either people will bitch about the jacket/casing being to hard or too soft so you cant win....but softer jacket means much better flexability. Ive been running Knu for years and havent had any issues. But im slowly switching over to XS power flex....its a 1/0 wire but its about the same size as the all mighty SHCA 2/0. But hey, thats why there are so many other wire companies bc people like other shit. I cant say much bc ive got from XS power, TSunami, Knu, Execution and AudioTechnix wire in my vehicle lol

My Sundown saz3500v2 at .5ohm also clamped about 3200rms rising to 1.8ohm....just another instance of the power you think you are getting is no where near what you think you have. CT sounds amps arent majic, the 1400.1 does 1600-1700 but when you start playing music and subs heat up and pressure builds up inside the box thats when impedence rise(box rise) is a killer. Maybe 1100rms is what you actually get.

If you want I can help you gain match if you go that route of running an amp per coil. The Dd-1 will match them dead nuts and I think, like you said too, that you will be better off running one amp per coil vs strapping. Prolly get more powa

Those CTs clamp what, like low 2000s each? How big is your Ginger, and what will your reserve look like?

I have voltage vids (both idle and revved) of when I had my amp hooked up.. Ampere 3800D at 1 and ~400-500 for front stage.

  RMS measurement is a measure of "power density".  It is 0.707 of Peak-To-Peak sine-wave readings so that the roughly 30% deducted can be used to fill "voids" in the sine-wave power envelope of a given sine-wave.
    So what does RMS have to do with evaluating an amplifier's performance?  Actually an RMS rating has very little meaning in terms of actual dynamic performance of an amplifier, although it has some value when comparing different amplifiers from different manufacturers. If all manufacturers quote their RMS values honestly it is possible to determine which machines are more powerful under RMS test conditions.  Unfortunately many manufacturers can get very creative in their measurements, and so all RMS ratings have to be taken at less than face value just in case .......
    To obtain an RMS rating, a given amplifier is placed in a test jig, attached to a fixed load of a specified impedance, and a signal at a given frequency is increasingly applied until the amplifier cannot produce any more power without "clipping" the sine-wave it is trying to produce.  At this point a voltage reading is taken with an instrument calibrated to accurately indicate RMS voltage, or the waveform can be measured with a calibrated oscilloscope and a mathematical calculation is undertaken to convert its Peak-To-Peak reading to RMS.  Using another mathematical formula, the voltage, in conjunction with the fixed load, produces the RMS rating.
    What has been obtained is an indication of what power the amplifier can produce continuously at a given frequency, to a static, usually non-inductive load, connected to other test equipment.  As the reader might already suspect, this test is far removed from any real-world practicality as far as reproducing music is concerned.

    Dynamic Audio Power (DAP)

    Dynamic Audio Power is just that.  It is a measure of what an amplifier can do when placed in a situation where it is producing actual music, into a dynamic load (a loudspeaker).  It is an estimate of how an amplifier can handle any number of frequencies simultaneously into a shifting impedance, as any loudspeaker can have a number of impedances depending on frequency applied.  It is a measure of what reserve power is available to produce a smashing low bass note while at the same time some very subtle high frequency content.  In short, it is a measure of what an amp can do in the real world, with real people listening to it, not how it can communicate with a lot of test equipment in a laboratory.
    Dynamic Audio Power usually appears to be greater than RMS in any given amplifier, by a factor of two (twice as much).  This is because the amplifier is not totally consumed trying to produce a static frequency continuously as in RMS, so that when a particularly short term heavy load is placed on it (lets say a powerful bass note), the amp has almost all its reserve at hand to do that job alone, and so can handle the momentary task with relative ease.  This explains why amplifiers that are rated rather low in RMS  terms have the ability to produce audio results way more than the low figures would tend to indicate.

    So - which rating is more important?  Actually both have their place in evaluating an amplifier. The RMS value can be a useful standard by which all manufactured amplifiers' power can be compared, if all manufacturers would only tell the truth, or test under exactly the same conditions.  For instance any, poorly crafted amplifier may be able to produce sizable RMS wattage at 1000 Hz but do terribly at 30 Hz (where the wattage really counts), so the manufacturer will naturally quote the RMS at 1000 Hz.  We always quote our RMS power ratings at about 30 Hz (unless otherwise stated), because if the power output is great there, it can only be even better everywhere else.
    Dynamic Power is very useful because it predicts just what the listener will hear in real-world conditions.  An amplifier is performing an amazing task, when trying to reproduce thousands of interacting waveforms, and their harmonics, while driving a loudspeaker that is in every sense of the word, a "moving target".            

if you can hold voltage then you Can get the full dynamic power. it's what the amp can do. if your gear can't that's a different story. not many of us can. (that wasnt directed towards you)
but in both cases you take them with a gram of salt. if rms is x and dynamic power is y then what you are truly getting is somewhere in the middle.
do i expect to get 2400w from each amp no.. not without a few more ho alts and a few more batcap 3000s that is. my guess is with both Amps and the battery configuration I'm going with I'll have a lil more then 3000w rms with around 4/4500 of dynamic power. but in the real world the dynamic power is a better guess of what your sub is seeing at heavy drops(if your voltage can handle it that is)
in your case if you had 2/3 singer 350amp alts and a few Batcaps and when your bass dropped if you stayed in the 14volt range yes your amp could absolutely put out and hold it's dynamic power.
lets take this Down a notch where it (In our case can happen)
lets say i have my 250 singer Alt and my batcap 3000. and a 500w rms amp to a single sub at 1ohm. lets say the dynamic power was 900w. with that electrical for that small of amp yes i could come very very close to hitting that number constantly! i know box rise takes effect. but in this case the power your sub is seeing at any given time will be much closer to the DP then the rms.
your amp is only as strong as the power you give it.

this has been a long standing debate for as long as i Can remember. people are very touchy about this. it's almost like religion or politics for us bassheads.

agreed, but i still think the "rms" of a amp is bigger bs then the dynamic power.

oh and fuck box rise! haha come rain on our parade!

i find it so funny when kids say you shouldn't put 1500w to a 1000w sub!
most kids (most) aren't even seeing half of what there amp can do. i can't tell you how many times a kid has Told me he has more watts then me or bigger subs so he's louder! then hears mine and is shocked.
first buddy your Lanzar amp can't put out 4k and second no amp Can get close to that running off 6g power wire! ive seen so many ghetto rigged systems in my day. they still continue to surprise me.
a few moumonths ago my friends friend Told Me his system would slam all over mine! without hearing mine. (the system in my Durango) i said oh yea what do you got?
he said 2 12s and a 15 (i immediately started to laugh) i said what amp are you running? he said a mtx 1500w and a Jensen 900w (hahahahahaha are you kidding me?) he did to! he had 2 type r 12s the 2nd gen ontop of a r 15 all in prefab boxes. the 900w was to the 15 and 1500w to the 12s. to my shocking surprise he was running them off a single 8g wire (i couldn't make this up) well i heard it and oh my! clipped boosted distorted mess of a system. you could hear the subs popping and crunching. i felt bad for the subs. the lights were dimming before it ever got any kind of loud. i Told him if he ditched the 12s and the 900w upgraded his wire his system would be louder. he looked at me like i didn't know what i was talking about. so i showed him my system. After the first drop i could tell it was the loudest he's ever heard (sad i know) and he was instantly my best friend. asked all kinds of questions and tips. i spent a hour showing and telling him what to do And how. setting gains eqs running wires. seen him 2 weeks later, you know what he did? he added a ten inch mtx sub to the amp with the 15!
you can't fix stupid!